Original Item: Only One Set Available. This is an original German pre-WWII Heer Army officer M35 Waffenrock dress uniform set dated 1937 and tailored by Th. Thöl of Kiel for Oberleutnant d.R. Freiderichsen. The tunic is fitted with light blue Hellblau Transport / Supply branch piping, reserve officer shoulder boards, gilt 10 cyphers, and two rank pips indicating the rank of Hauptmann der Reserve in its present configuration. It is accompanied by matching stone gray piped trousers and an officer dress aiguillette.

The tunic is constructed from fine field gray Feldgrau whipcord wool and follows the formal M35 Waffenrock pattern. The front closure has eight matching silvered pebbled buttons, each with magnetic steel backings and eyelets beneath pebbled aluminum tops. A small plastic button between the silvered buttons serves as one of the attachment points for the aiguillette. Two hook and loop fasteners secure the collar.

The interior is lined in aqua gray cotton rayon blend satin twill with a horizontal slash pocket on the left chest. The sleeves are lined in soft ivory colored satin, probably of a similar cotton rayon blend. An internal waist belt is present to help maintain the tunic’s tailored profile and is not adjustable.

The tunic still has the original tailor label on the inside rear of the collar, which indicates the company was founded in 1859:

Th. Thöl
        KIEL
GEGRÜNDET 1859

There is also a name tag in the inner chest pocket, which gives a date, name, and rank!

TH. THÖL, KIEL
15. 2. 37 GEGR. 1859 7654
Herrn Oberleutnant d.R.
Freiderichsen.

The Waffenrock is adorned with the usual rank and branch insignia used on German tunics. The attractive Army breast eagle is the correct early pattern officer's silver bullion hand embroidered type on a dark bottle green backer. The eagle is without damage and is very neatly hand stitched to the chest in a fashion typical of wartime German tailor work. The collar is wrapped in a flaschengrün (dark bottle-green) "badge cloth" wool, and the base material of the two bullion officer's dress litzen on each side of the collar opening is Hellblau (Light blue) wool, the Waffenfarbe (Corps Color) during WWII for Transportation troops (Fahrtruppen) until 1942 and Supply troops (Nachschubtruppen) from 1942 onwards.

The collar, front closure, and other areas of the tunic bear piping of the same color. The two litzen themselves are woven from a fine silver flatware thread. The collar and its insignia are without any noticeable damage or mothing. The lower French style cuffs of the sleeves have the correct bottle green wool base, and are adorned with the correct light blue piping and litzen matching the collar. The “sew-in” style Leutnante Schulterklappen (junior officer shoulder straps) of this Waffenrock are constructed with two rows of fine silver flatware "Russia Braid" double piping and have the correct light blue piping underneath. Under this is a gray Nebelfarbe secondary color base, which indicates that the officer was in the reserves.

The original 1937 customer label identifies Freiderichsen as an Oberleutnant d.R. when the uniform was ordered. The present shoulder boards, however, carry two rank pips and therefore represent the later rank of Hauptmann der Reserve. This suggests the tunic was updated following promotion. We can also see three vertically oriented thread loops on the left chest for a medal bar, which is not present.

To top this off, the tunic has an officer's dress aiguillette cord setup on the right hand side, held under the shoulder board and attached to the buttons. These were to be worn on specific occasions requiring formal dress, or at any time on Parade when A H might be present. It is the 1935 Pattern, known as the Achselband or Fangschnur and authorized for wear by German Wehrmacht officers throughout WWII. These are similar to the Adjutantenschnur adjutant aiguillette, however they only have one braided cord, while this has two.

Overall condition of the tunic is very good. The wool shows light service wear without major tears or visible moth damage, the buttons remain matching and retain much of their finish, and the collar shows only light wear. No obvious major replacements are noted.

The included trousers are are in the popular Steingrau (Stone Gray) color in "whipcord" weave satinet wool, and feature the correct light blue Transport / Supply piping down the outside center of each leg. The top waist of the exterior has a band of satin, and interior is minimally lined towards the top with very light gray brushed cotton. They feature a front fly closure with four hidden buttons under a hook and loop fastener, and there are two additional buttons offset farther in, which attach to a strap on the lining. There are two diagonal slash hip pockets, a small horizontal slash pocket watch pocket to the right of the fly, and a button closed pocket on the right rear seat. The suspender buttons on the inside waist are all present, and there is a strap and buckle across the rear for size adjustment.

The inside of the left side strap with buckle actually has a name tag on it, which is a match for that on the tunic:

TH. THÖL, KIEL
15. 2. 37 GEGR. 1859 7654
Herrn Freiderichsen
Kremsdorf

Condition of the trousers is excellent, with the only issue noted being some spattered dirt on the bottoms of the legs.

With its matching 1937 Th. Thöl tailor labels, named tunic and trousers, Transport / Supply branch colors, Reserve officer shoulder boards, gilt 10 cyphers, later Hauptmann rank configuration, officer aiguillette, and matching stone gray trousers, this is a particularly complete Heer officer dress uniform set. The light tunic wear, missing ribbon bar, and dirt spatter to the trouser cuffs are fully disclosed. It would fit especially well in a Heer Transport, Supply, named officer, Reserve officer, or advanced German dress uniform collection.

Approximate Measurements:
Collar to shoulder: 10"
Shoulder to sleeve: 23.5"
Shoulder to shoulder: 18"
Chest width: 19"
Waist: 20"
Hip: 22.5"
Front length: 31"

Waist: 17.5"
Rise: 13"
Inseam: 28.5"

The M35 Waffenrock dress tunic was introduced for wear by all ranks on June 29TH 1935 as the walking out, parade and ceremonial dress with the piped, stone grey long pants. The design of the M35 dress tunic was based on the Imperial German army’s service tunic but was a different color and generally of much higher quality. Originally all personnel were issued two M35 dress tunics but manufacture was discontinued in late 1939 or early 1940 and was to be reinstated at the successful conclusion of the war. Regulations of March 21ST 1940 stated that the M35 dress tunics that were no longer suitable for dress wear were to be modified and reissued to personnel of the replacement and reserve units for every day wear. Officers and certain senior NCO ranks were responsible for purchasing their own uniforms and as a result were allotted a clothing allowance through the army’s Kleiderkasse, (Clothing Account), system. The Officers and certain senior NCO’s could choose to purchase their uniforms from the armed forces clothing depots or to privately purchase garments of higher quality. Although enlisted personnel were issued their uniforms from government supplies they were also permitted to purchase privately tailored uniforms although the price may have been restrictive.