Original Items: Only One Set Available. This is a striking French WWI officer uniform set associated with the Aéronautique Militaire, the French Army’s wartime aviation service. The group consists of a black wool officer’s tunic with gold bullion winged-star collar insignia, lieutenant’s cuff rank, service and wound chevrons, together with a heavily worn aviation officer’s kepi.

The tunic dates stylistically to the early WWI period and has an especially elegant appearance, with a fitted black wool body, seven-button front, standing collar, gold bullion insignia, and period-applied sleeve markings. The uniform was later held by United Costumers and was most likely used for film, theatrical, or studio wardrobe purposes after the war. During that period, the original French aviation buttons were removed and replaced with plain J. R. Gaunt of New York buttons. Fortunately, the original winged French buttons were retained in a bag inside the tunic pocket and are included with the set.

At the beginning of WWI, French military aviation remained part of the Army and was known as the Aéronautique Militaire. France had been an early leader in aircraft development and entered the war with an established system of aviation squadrons, or escadrilles. Aircraft were initially used primarily for reconnaissance and artillery observation, but the service expanded rapidly to include aerial combat, bombing, and specialized fighter units.

The standing collar is fitted with beautifully embroidered gold bullion winged-star insignia. This distinctive emblem was associated with French military aviation and appears on documented French Air Service uniforms from the WWI period. A comparable French service coat in the National Air and Space Museum collection retains the same gold-wire winged-star aviation insignia on its collar.

The collar closes at the throat with two hook-and-eye fasteners, which remain present and functional. The insignia retains excellent definition, with bright gold bullion and strong contrasting thread colors.

Two horizontal rank stripes are present on each cuff, most likely indicating the rank of Lieutenant. The left sleeve carries three upward-pointing service chevrons, while the right sleeve carries two wound chevrons. These markings indicate a substantial period of service and two wounds, assuming they are original to the tunic and correctly configured.

The tunic retains all seven front buttons, although the buttons currently installed are plain examples manufactured by J. R. Gaunt of New York. The maker’s name and the United Costumers stamp inside the left sleeve indicate that the tunic entered the American theatrical or film-costume trade after its military use.

Included separately are the original French aviation-pattern buttons removed from the tunic. The group contains four large and four small winged buttons, all bearing French maker markings. Their retention is an important feature, as they preserve the tunic’s original aviation appearance and could be studied for possible restoration.

The included kepi is heavily worn but has excellent character and complements the tunic very well. It retains gold bullion braid and an aviation-style eagle or winged badge at the front. The cloth chinstrap has gold-colored tape stitched across its face.

The kepi shows extensive service and age wear, including fading, staining, fabric deterioration, distortion, and wear to the bullion decoration. Its exact relationship to the tunic cannot be documented, but the two pieces were received together and create a very convincing early French aviation officer display.

The black wool construction is associated with the dark prewar uniform tradition that remained in use during the opening period of WWI before horizon-blue uniforms became widespread. French uniforms changed rapidly as the realities of modern warfare made the highly visible prewar colors increasingly impractical.

Condition of the tunic is very good overall, with expected age, wear, and evidence of its later costume use. The collar insignia, sleeve chevrons, cuff rank, and internal stamp remain visible. The replacement buttons are fully disclosed, and the original French winged buttons are included separately.

The kepi is in considerably more worn condition, with heavy age and service deterioration, but retains its bullion trim, front badge, chinstrap, and distinctive shape.

The combination of early aviation collar insignia, lieutenant’s rank, service and wound chevrons, original French buttons, later United Costumers history, and matching aviation kepi makes this an especially interesting set. It would display very well in a collection devoted to WWI aviation, the Aéronautique Militaire, early military flying, or historic theatrical military costumes.